Powder Coating FAQs

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Listed below are the frequently asked questions about the powder coating and sandblasting processes. 

What Makes Our Approach Different

At Adrenaline Customs, we don’t treat sandblasting as a one-size-fits-all process.

We start by understanding what the customer is trying to achieve. Sometimes the fastest method is not the best method for the application.

For automotive or hot rod parts, we often use lighter pressure and increased distance to part to reduce the risk of warping. For industrial components, a more aggressive approach may be appropriate to improve turnaround time.

We also factor in lead times and shop workload so we can balance speed and quality realistically.

In addition to blasting, we also offer in-house powder coating, allowing customers to move from surface prep to finished product in one controlled process. Many customers come in planning to paint parts, but often switch to powder coating once they understand the durability benefits.

Before choosing a provider, ask:

  • What grit or media do you use for my type of part?
  • Do you adjust pressure based on material and condition?
  • Are you targeting a white metal blast or a lighter brush blast?
  • How is the job priced, and is it hourly or fixed?

Most reputable blasting work is billed hourly because removal time depends heavily on the condition of the coating or rust.  Its impossible to know how fast or slow a coating can be blasted off without a test blast first.

These questions help ensure expectations are aligned before work begins.

A proper sandblasting job should meet white metal blast standards SSPC-SP 5 … meaning 100% of the surface is clean, bright white/gray metal ready for coating.

A lighter process, known as brush blasting, only lightly abrades the surface and does not provide the same level of preparation.  This would be used for cold rolled steel or stainless steel blasting.

Before blasting begins, we ensure all parts are free of grease and contamination as much as possbile. During and after the process, we carefully inspect for missed areas—especially since freshly blasted metal can blend visually and make imperfections harder to see.

Attention to detail at this stage directly affects coating performance later.

We’ve had multiple customers come to us after trying to save money by using “accessible” blasting services—whether that’s a maintenance department or an under-equipped shop.

In several cases, parts were blasted using incorrect media, excessive pressure, or improper technique. The result was permanent damage and even scrapped parts.

We’ve even seen flat steel components severely warped—essentially turned into unusable scrap. Once metal is damaged at that level, it’s often impossible to restore.

This is why experience matters. Sandblasting is not just about removing material or creating a profile—it’s about controlling how it’s removed.

Different blasting setups and media serve different purposes.

In our blast room, we typically use aluminum oxide for tougher coatings. It is extremely hard, cuts quickly, and can be reused many times—making it cost-effective despite a higher initial price.

For smaller or more detailed work, we use blast cabinets equipped with both aluminum oxide and glass bead media. Glass bead is ideal for achieving a smoother, more refined “vapor-blasted” finish, especially on aluminum parts.  Glass bean is not suitable for coating removal as it’s a peening media not a cutting media like aluminum oxide.

Pressure control also plays a major role. Adjusting pressure allows us to fine-tune how aggressive the blast is, depending on the material and finish requirements.

Every job starts with an evaluation—not a preset process.

We look at:

  • The condition of the existing coating or rust scale
  • The intended use of the part
  • The base material (metallurgy)

Steel is generally more forgiving and can handle a wider range of blasting approaches. Aluminum, on the other hand, requires far more finesse—too aggressive of a blasting can easily damage or distort it.  We’ve seen alloy wheels be completely ruined by improper blast media selection.

This upfront evaluation ensures we select the right process instead of forcing every job into the same method.

One of the biggest mistakes customers make is shopping on price alone.

The lowest bid is rarely the best value, especially in sandblasting, where improper technique can permanently damage parts. When a job is priced too aggressively, the operator often has to prioritize speed over precision.

That usually means using overly aggressive  blasting media or bumping the pressure up just to get the job done quickly. In the wrong application, this can lead to serious damage—warping steel, distorting components, or leaving a surface profile that is unsuitable for coating.

What looks like savings upfront can quickly turn into scrapped parts or costly rework.

At Adrenaline Customs, sandblasting is not limited to one type of work. We serve both industrial/commercial clients, as well as automotive, motorcycle, and powersports customers.

Our facility is equipped to handle a wide range of projects, from small precision parts in blast cabinets to large components up to 20 feet long and 10 feet wide in our blast room.

That range matters. Different industries require different levels of aggression, surface preparation, and finish quality. A company that understands multiple applications is better equipped to match the process to the part—not the other way around.

Choosing a sandblasting company is not about finding the lowest price—it’s about finding the right process for your material and end use. The wrong blasting approach can permanently damage parts through excessive pressure, incorrect media selection, or wrong technique.  A reputable company evaluates your project, selects the correct blasting method, and prioritizes surface quality and material integrity over speed. Always ask about media type, pressure control, surface finish standards before hiring.

Choosing a sandblasting company is not about finding the lowest price—it’s about finding the right process for your material and end use. The wrong blasting approach can permanently damage parts through excessive pressure, incorrect media selection, or wrong technique.  A reputable company evaluates your project, selects the correct blasting method, and prioritizes surface quality and material integrity over speed. Always ask about media type, pressure control, surface finish standards before hiring.

Powder Coating is a dry finishing process where electrically charged powder is applied to metal and cured with heat to form a hard, durable coating.

Powder coating uses no liquid solvents, creates a thicker and more durable finish, and resists chipping, scratching, and fading better than paint.

Thousands of colors and finishes including gloss, matte, satin, textured, metallic, and specialty effects like PowderLUX patina finishes.

Yes. Many powders are available in standard color systems such as RAL and custom matches may be possible. Exact matches of pearl or metallic colors are
limited. Expect small variances in color after application.

Powder coating is extremely durable. It resists scratches, chips, corrosion, UV exposure, and weathering. It’s the most durable of all the finish options on the market.

Yes! When powder coating is properly applied with a primer and top coat, it provides excellent
protection against moisture, sun, and temperature changes.

Yes. Proper surface preparation and coating help seal metal and protect it from corrosion. Nothing is rust proof, but at Adrenaline Customs we use a pretreatment, primer and top coat when powder coating all outdoor items.

With normal use, powder coating can last many years without peeling or fading. In Minnesota, 10-15 years outdoors can be expected.

Standard coatings tolerate moderate heat at about 250 sustained degrees; high-
temperature powders are available for temps around 500 degrees. Above 500
degrees, a ceramic coating should be considered.

With the never ending price hikes of paint products lately, powder coating is significantly cheaper than paint.

Parts are typically cleaned and sandblasted to remove rust, oil, and old coatings for proper adhesion.

No. All rust and old coatings must be removed before powder coating.

The average coat of powder is about .003” or your average sheet of copy paper thick.

Minor touch-ups are possible, but full recoating may be required for larger damage.

Yes. Powder coating can be stripped/blasted off and recoated if needed.

Automotive parts, wheels, bike frames, railings, furniture, appliances, and industrial components.

Materials that cannot withstand high curing temperatures, such as most plastics, rubber, and wood.

Clean regularly with mild soap and water, using a soft cloth or sponge. A coat of wax or ceramic will make it easy to clean and prevent micro scratching. Avoid abrasive cleaners, harsh chemicals like brake cleaner, acetone, or thinners. They should never be used on powder coat. It can cause irreparable harm to the coating.

Light surface scuffs on high gloss finishes can sometimes be reduced or blended using a fine polishing compound and a soft cloth or buffing pad. Deep scratches that penetrate the coating cannot be fully buffed out and usually require touch-up or recoating.